Nestora
This pattern makes a long textured scarf in a leafy medallion cable stitch worked side to side. You need confident-beginner skills: chains, single and double crochet, front post stitches and simple two-stitch cables. Estimated working time is about 4 to 5 hours for a 60 in scarf.
Leafy Medallion Cable Stitch Sampler Scarf
Free crochet pattern · US terms
Written and count-checked on paper, not yet physically tested. Make the gauge swatch and the checkpoint below before you commit all your yarn.
The scarf is one flat rectangle worked in rows from short end to short end, so the leafy medallions stack across the width and repeat along the length. Raised front post double crochets form the vine, and crossed double crochets make the small leaf shapes between them.
It suits crocheters who can keep a steady stitch count and are ready to try post stitches and a basic cable. The fabric is dense enough for cold weather and lies flat with light blocking.
Suggested materials. Any yarn of the same weight works if you match the gauge.
A smooth, plied worsted shows cables clearly; fuzzy or dark yarn hides the texture. A heavy DK weight can substitute if you match gauge.
Matches worsted weight for a firm fabric that holds cable texture. Go up to 5.5 mm (I-9) if your swatch comes out too narrow.
Used to weave in ends and to join the fringe if you add it. A blunt tip slides through crochet stitches without splitting them.
Marks the first stitch of the row so the turning chain is not mistaken for a stitch. Any removable clip works.
Needed for the gauge swatch and checkpoint. Sharp scissors give clean fringe ends.
Yarn needed (estimate): Estimated about 480 yd (440 m), about 2 skeins of 220 yd (200 m) / 100 g
Gauge: 16 sts x 14 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in the main medallion pattern, unblocked, measured over the middle of the swatch. This gauge is calculated from the yarn and hook above, not measured on a finished sample. Make a 4 in (10 cm) swatch first; change the hook size, not your tension, until it matches.
Finished size (approximate): About 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide by 60 in (152 cm) long, calculated from the stated gauge and row count. Your size depends on your gauge.
| Abbr. | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sc | single crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| FPdc | front post double crochet |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 stitches together |
| st | stitch |
| sts | stitches |
| sp | space |
| rep | repeat |
| FO | fasten off |
Yarn over, insert the hook from front to back around the post of the stitch two rows below, then front to back to the starting side. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then finish as a normal double crochet. The stitch sits in front of the fabric and makes the raised vine.
Skip the next stitch. Work 1 dc in the following stitch, going in front of the skipped stitch. Then work 1 dc into the skipped stitch, inserting the hook behind the first dc. This crosses two stitches with the right-hand stitch in front.
Yarn over, insert the hook in the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, insert the hook in the following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.
| What you see | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| The scarf gets wider or narrower as you go | The turning chain is being counted as a stitch, or the first stitch of the row is being skipped. | Count each row before turning. The ch 2 is not a stitch, so the first dc goes into the very first stitch, and the row should read 24 sts. |
| The raised vine looks flat or disappears | The FPdc was worked into the stitch directly below instead of around the post two rows down. | Look two rows below the working row, find the post of the stitch, and wrap the hook around it from front to back. The raised stitch should sit on top of the fabric. |
| Holes appear where the leaf crosses | The skipped stitch was worked too loosely, or the second dc went into the wrong stitch. | Keep the first dc snug, then work the second dc into the skipped stitch behind it. Pull gently on both stitches after making them to close the gap. |
| Edges are wavy | Tension changes between plain dc rows and cable rows. | Work the cable rows slightly looser and the plain rows at normal tension. Light blocking at the end evens out small waves. |
| The swatch is narrower than 4 in (10 cm) | Tension is tighter than the gauge, or the yarn is thinner than worsted. | Try a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook and measure again. If the width is still off, add one 8-stitch repeat, which changes the count by 8. |
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, squeeze gently without wringing, and roll in a towel to remove water. Lay flat to dry and reshape to size; do not tumble dry or iron.
No. The pattern is written row by row with the repeat stated, and every row keeps 24 stitches, so you can follow the text alone. A chart helps visual learners, but it is not required.
Yes. Each medallion block is 8 stitches, so add or remove multiples of 8 in the starting chain. A 16-stitch chain gives a narrow 4 in (10 cm) scarf; a 32-stitch chain gives about 8 in (20 cm).
It is a good first cable project because the cable is only two stitches and the crossed stitches are separated by plain double crochet. Practice the LC on the swatch before starting the scarf.
The estimate is about 480 yd (440 m) for a 60 in (152 cm) scarf at the stated gauge. This is a calculation from stitch counts, not a measured amount, so buy an extra skein if you plan fringe or a longer scarf.
Next: Try a matching leafy medallion headband worked in the round to practice joining rows without a turning chain.
Printed from Nestora — https://nestora.medsaca.com/2026/10/24/leafy-medallion-cable-scarf/