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Fairygrunge Patchwork Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern

You will crochet a loose, boxy cardigan built from mixed granny squares and joined with visible seams. It needs beginner skills plus simple joining, and most crocheters finish it in about 12 to 16 hours of working time spread over a few evenings.

Fairygrunge Patchwork Cardigan

Free crochet pattern · US terms

Yarn: 4 - Medium (worsted) — suggested
Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8) — verify with a swatch
Gauge: One 4-round granny square measures 4 in x 4 in (10 cm x 10 cm) after light steaming. In hdc worked in back loops only, 14 sts x 12 rows = 4 in (10 cm). (calculated, not measured)
Size: approx. Approximately 24 in (61 cm) long from shoulder to hem, 44 in (112 cm) around the chest, and 19 in (48 cm) sleeve length from shoulder. Loose, boxy fit with about 6 to 8 in (15 to 20 cm) of positive ease.
Level: Confident beginner
Time: about 14 h (estimate)

Written and count-checked on paper, not yet physically tested. Make the gauge swatch and the checkpoint below before you commit all your yarn.

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The cardigan is made from 24 granny squares in two sizes and three stitch patterns, arranged in a patchwork layout across the back, two fronts and two sleeves. Squares are joined with a simple slip stitch seam worked on the right side so the seam line stays visible, which gives the piece its worn, hand-made look.

A ribbed border in half double crochet worked in back loops only runs up both fronts and around the neck, and a matching band finishes the lower edge and cuffs. The fit is loose and boxy with dropped shoulders, so there is no armhole shaping to work out. It suits confident beginners who can make a granny square and count stitches.

Before You Start

Time Estimate: About 12 to 16 hours of active crocheting, plus joining and border time, estimated for a confident beginner.

Yarn Amount: Roughly 1,200 yd (1,100 m) total in mixed colors, estimated from the square count and gauge. Buy one extra skein of your main color.

Swatch First: Work one 4-round square and measure it before starting. Square size controls the whole fit.

Skill Check: You should be comfortable with double crochet, chain spaces and joining rounds with a slip stitch.

Materials

Suggested materials. Any yarn of the same weight works if you match the gauge.

5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook

Matches worsted weight for a firm, even square. A 4.5 mm (7) hook gives a tighter, smaller square if your gauge runs loose.

About 1,200 yd (1,100 m) worsted weight acrylic or acrylic-wool blend in 4 to 6 colors

Acrylic holds its shape and washes well for a garment worn often. A wool blend gives more drape if you prefer a softer hang.

Tapestry needle, blunt tip

Needed for the visible seams and for weaving in many ends. A blunt tip slides through stitches without splitting the yarn.

Stitch markers, 4 to 6

Useful for holding corner chain spaces and for marking the armhole position during joining.

Tape measure

You will measure squares and the body several times. Fabric tape is easier on a garment.

Yarn needed (estimate): estimated about 1,200 yd (1,100 m) total, roughly 6 skeins of 200 yd (183 m) in assorted colors

Gauge and Size

Gauge: One 4-round granny square measures 4 in x 4 in (10 cm x 10 cm) after light steaming. In hdc worked in back loops only, 14 sts x 12 rows = 4 in (10 cm).. This gauge is calculated from the yarn and hook above, not measured on a finished sample. Make a 4 in (10 cm) swatch first; change the hook size, not your tension, until it matches.

Finished size (approximate): Approximately 24 in (61 cm) long from shoulder to hem, 44 in (112 cm) around the chest, and 19 in (48 cm) sleeve length from shoulder. Loose, boxy fit with about 6 to 8 in (15 to 20 cm) of positive ease.. Your size depends on your gauge.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Abbr.	Meaning
ch	chain
sl st	slip stitch
sc	single crochet
hdc	half double crochet
dc	double crochet
st	stitch
sts	stitches
sp	space
ch-3 sp	chain-3 space
BLO	back loop only
FO	fasten off
rep	repeat

Special Stitches

Granny cluster (3-dc group)

Work 3 dc into the same chain space or stitch. The three double crochets sit together and count as one cluster.

Chain-3 corner

At each corner of a square, work 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc into the same corner space. The ch-3 makes the turning point.

Slip stitch seam

Hold two squares with right sides facing you and edges lined up. Insert the hook through both layers at the same point, yarn over, pull through both layers and through the loop on the hook. Repeat along the edge.

How This Pattern Is Written

All terms are US crochet terms. The turning chain of 3 ch at the start of a round counts as the first dc of that round.
Squares are worked in joined rounds: each round closes with a sl st into the top of the starting ch-3, then you sl st across to the next ch-3 space to begin the next round.
Right side of each square faces you as you work. Keep the same side facing out for all squares so the texture stays consistent.
The cardigan is assembled flat with visible slip stitch seams on the right side. Seams are worked through both layers along the outer edges of the squares.
Sizes are given for one finished size only. The variations section explains how to add or remove squares for a larger or smaller fit.
Gauge, size and yardage are calculated from the stated assumptions, not from a physically tested sample. Measure your own square before joining.
All stitch counts in this pattern are recalculated from the written operations. They are not from a physically tested sample; count your own work at each checkpoint.

Checkpoint after Round 4 of the first square: A flat square with a straight edge on all four sides, measuring about 4 in (10 cm) across, with 12 dc along each side plus the corner chain spaces. Total stitches in Round 4 should be 48 dc and 4 ch-3 spaces.

The Pattern

Granny Squares (make 24)

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 3. Then work 3 dc, ch 3 three more times into the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch-3. Pull the ring tail snug. FO if changing color.(12 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Round 2: Join new color with a sl st in any ch-3 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same sp, ch 3, 3 dc in the same sp (first corner made). Then in each of the next 3 ch-3 sps work 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc. Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch-3.(24 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Round 3: Join new color with a sl st in any ch-3 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same sp, ch 3, 3 dc in the same sp (first corner). Work 3 dc in the space between the next two 3-dc groups along the side. In the next ch-3 sp work a corner group (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc). Rep from the side group to the corner group around all four sides. Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch-3.(36 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Round 4: Join new color with a sl st in any ch-3 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in the same sp, ch 3, 3 dc in the same sp (first corner). Work 3 dc in each space between 3-dc groups along the side, then a corner group (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the next ch-3 sp. Rep around all four sides. Join with a sl st to the top of the starting ch-3. FO and weave in ends.(48 dc, 4 ch-3 sps)
Squares 2-24: Rep Rounds 1-4 to make 24 squares total. Change colors as you like; use a different color for Round 4 on at least half the squares so the patchwork reads clearly. Measure each square against the checkpoint before setting it aside.(48 squares, 48 dc each)

Front and Neck Ribbing

Row 1: With the right side facing, join yarn at the bottom right corner of the right front. Ch 2 (does not count as a st). Work 1 hdc in each dc and 2 hdc in each ch-3 sp along the front edge to the shoulder. Ch 2, turn. The exact number of hdc depends on how many squares are joined along this edge; count your stitches and use that number for Rows 2-8.(pick-up row: 60 hdc per dc, 2 hdc per ch-3 sp; count as you go)
Row 2: Work 1 hdc in the BLO of each st across. Ch 2, turn.(same number of hdc as Row 60)
Rows 3-8: Rep Row 2 six more times for a ribbed band about 2 in (5 cm) wide. FO, leaving a 12 in (30 cm) tail.(same number of hdc as Row 60)
Left Front: Rep Rows 1-8 along the left front edge, starting at the shoulder and working down to the hem. Keep the band the same width so both fronts match.(same number of hdc as the right front)
Neck Band: Join yarn at the top of the right front band. Work 1 hdc in each st around the neck opening, working 2 hdc in each corner sp. Ch 2, turn. Work 3 rows in BLO hdc. FO. The total is an estimate; count your stitches on the pick-up row and keep that number for the following rows.(estimated 72 hdc; confirm by counting)

Finishing and Assembly

1. Lay out all 24 squares on a flat surface in a 5-square-wide arrangement: 5 across the back, 3 across each front and 2 for each sleeve cap. Check that the total width matches your chest measurement plus ease before seaming.
2. Join the back squares in vertical strips with slip stitch seams on the right side, then join the strips together. Repeat for each front panel.
3. Join the front panels to the back at the shoulders, then along the side seams, leaving the top 7 in (18 cm) of each side open for the armhole.
4. Join the sleeve squares into a tube, then slip stitch the sleeve tube into the armhole opening, matching the center of the sleeve to the shoulder seam.
5. Work the front, neck and hem ribbing as described in the sections, then work a 3-row hdc BLO band around each cuff.
6. Weave in all ends on the wrong side. Lightly steam the seams flat with a pressing cloth, then let the cardigan dry fully before wearing.

Sizes and Variations

Cropped Fit

Use 4 rounds per square and stop the body after 4 rows of squares instead of 5. The chest measurement drops by about 8 in (20 cm).

Longer Sleeves

Add one more square to each sleeve tube. Each added square lengthens the sleeve by about 4 in (10 cm).

Single Color

Work all squares in one color and use a contrasting yarn for the seams and ribbing. Counts stay the same.

Chunky Version

Use 6 - Super Bulky yarn with an 8.0 mm (L-11) hook and 3-round squares. Fewer squares are needed; recalculate the layout from your measured square size.

Troubleshooting

What you see	Likely cause	Fix
Squares come out wavy or ruffled at the edges	Too many stitches worked into the ch-1 spaces, usually from putting 4 dc instead of 3.	Frog back to the wavy round and recount: each ch-1 space takes exactly 3 dc and each corner takes 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc.
Finished cardigan is too small across the chest	Squares measured smaller than 4 in (10 cm), so the total width shrank with them.	Measure a square flat without stretching. If it is under 3.75 in (9.5 cm), go up one hook size and remake the squares, or add a column of squares to the back and fronts.
Seams pucker and pull the fabric	Seam stitches worked too tightly, or edges matched at uneven points.	Work the slip stitch seam loosely and pin the two edges together at every corner before seaming. One seam stitch per edge stitch keeps the length even.
Front bands curl outward	The band was worked in both loops or the row count is too narrow.	Work every band row in BLO hdc and keep the band at least 8 rows wide. Steam the band flat while it is still slightly damp.
Armhole opening is too tight to wear comfortably	Side seam joined too far up the side, leaving less than 7 in (18 cm) open.	Unpick the top few seam stitches until the opening measures 7 to 8 in (18 to 20 cm), then fasten the seam again.

Care

Turn the cardigan inside out and machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, or hand wash. Do not wring. Roll in a towel to remove water, then dry flat and shape the ribbing while damp. Steam seams lightly with a pressing cloth; do not press directly on the stitches.

Questions Makers Ask

How many granny squares do I need for a cardigan?

This pattern uses 24 squares of about 4 in (10 cm) each. The number changes with your square size, so measure one square first and adjust the layout to your chest measurement plus 6 to 8 in (15 to 20 cm) of ease.

Can I make this cardigan with one color of yarn?

Yes. Work every square in the same color and use a contrasting yarn for the seams and ribbing so the patchwork lines still show. The stitch counts do not change.

Do I need to block the squares before joining?

Light steaming helps the squares sit flat and match in size, but it is not required. If your squares are already even and flat, you can join them straight away and block the finished cardigan.

Is this cardigan suitable for a first garment project?

It is a good first garment if you can already crochet a flat granny square and count rounds. There is no armhole or neckline shaping, so the fit comes from the square layout rather than from increases and decreases.

Designer's note: Make one square completely before committing to 24. Ten minutes of measuring now saves hours of reworking the layout later.

Next: Try a granny square tote bag next to practice joining squares into a shaped piece with a base and handles.

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