Chunky Ribbed Ear Warmer Free Crochet Pattern

You will make a stretchy ribbed ear warmer worked flat in half double crochet and seamed into a band. It uses beginner stitches only and takes an estimated 2 to 3 hours.

Chunky Ribbed Ear Warmer

Free crochet pattern · US terms

Yarn: 5 – Bulky (chunky) — suggested
Hook: 6.0 mm (J-10) — verify with a swatch
Gauge: 12 sts x 10 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in half double crochet worked in the back loop only, unblocked (calculated, not measured)
Size: approx. About 20 in (51 cm) around before stretching and 3.5 in (9 cm) tall, flat; it stretches to fit a head of roughly 21 to 23 in (53 to 58 cm)
Level: Confident beginner
Time: about 2 h 30 min (estimate)

Written and count-checked on paper, not yet physically tested. Make the gauge swatch and the checkpoint below before you commit all your yarn.

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The finished piece is a wide headband that covers the ears and stretches to fit. It is worked in short rows of half double crochet in the back loop only, which creates the vertical ridges you see on the band.

The band is made as one flat rectangle, then the two short ends are joined with a seam. That seam sits at the back of the head. The pattern suits a confident beginner who can make half double crochet and work into the back loop.

Before You Start

Time: about 2 to 3 hours for one adult band, estimated from the row count and yarn weight.

Skill: you need chain, half double crochet, back loop only, and a simple whipstitch seam.

Yarn: one 100 g skein of bulky yarn is enough for an adult size; yardage is estimated, not measured.

Swatch first: work a small back-loop half double crochet swatch to check your stitch width before starting.

Materials

Suggested materials. Any yarn of the same weight works if you match the gauge.

1 skein bulky (CYC 5) acrylic or acrylic-wool blend yarn, about 100 g

Bulky yarn gives the chunky ridges and works up fast. A smooth wool-blend bulky yarn is a good substitute if you want more warmth.

6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook

Matches bulky yarn for a dense, stretchy fabric. Go down to 5.5 mm (I-9) if your swatch comes out wider than stated.

Tapestry needle

Needed for the final seam and for weaving in ends. A blunt tip slides between stitches without splitting them.

Tape measure

Used to check the band length against your head before seaming. Any soft measuring tape works.

Stitch marker

Optional but helpful to mark the first stitch of each row. A removable marker or a short scrap of yarn works.

Yarn needed (estimate): Estimated about 110 yd (100 m), roughly 1 skein of 100 g

Gauge and Size

Gauge: 12 sts x 10 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in half double crochet worked in the back loop only, unblocked. This gauge is calculated from the yarn and hook above, not measured on a finished sample. Make a 4 in (10 cm) swatch first; change the hook size, not your tension, until it matches.

Finished size (approximate): About 20 in (51 cm) around before stretching and 3.5 in (9 cm) tall, flat; it stretches to fit a head of roughly 21 to 23 in (53 to 58 cm). Your size depends on your gauge.

Abbreviations (US terms)

Abbr.	Meaning
ch	chain
hdc	half double crochet
BLO	back loop only
st	stitch
sts	stitches
FO	fasten off

Special Stitches

Half double crochet in back loop only (hdc BLO)

Yarn over, insert the hook under the back loop of the stitch only, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook. Working only the back loop leaves the front loop free, which makes the raised ridge.

How This Pattern Is Written

All terms are US crochet terms.
The band is worked flat in rows, turning at the end of each row. The turning chain of 2 does not count as a stitch; the first hdc of each row goes into the first stitch (the same stitch as the base of the turning chain).
Right side: the side facing you on odd-numbered rows is the right side. The ridges run across the band on both sides, so either side can face out.
The band is seamed at the short ends. Place the seam at the back of the head.
The band is designed to fit with negative ease, so the finished flat length is shorter than the head it fits. Measure your head and adjust the row count before seaming.

Checkpoint after Row 6: The piece should measure about 4 in (10 cm) wide and show clear horizontal ridges from the back-loop work. You should have 12 sts.

The Pattern

Ear Warmer Band

Row 1: Ch 13. Hdc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn.(12 hdc)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st). Hdc BLO in each st across. Turn.(12 hdc)
Rows 3-48: Repeat Row 2 forty-six times. Do not FO yet.(12 hdc)
Row 49: Ch 2. Hdc BLO in each st across. FO, leaving a tail about 12 in (30 cm) long for seaming.(12 hdc)

Finishing and Assembly

1. Lay the band flat without twisting it. Bring the two short ends together so the ridges line up.
2. Thread the long tail on the tapestry needle. Whipstitch the two ends together, catching one loop from each edge so the seam stays flat.
3. Try the band on before weaving in. If it feels too loose, open the seam, add rows, and reseam.
4. Weave in the remaining ends along the inside of the band.
5. Steam lightly or spritz with water and press flat with your hands to even out the ridges. Do not stretch the band while it dries.

Sizes and Variations

Child size

work 42 rows instead of 49 for a flat length of about 17 in (43 cm). Stitch count per row stays 12.

Wider band

ch 17 for Row 1 to get 16 sts per row, then repeat Row 2 as written. Add about 25 percent more yarn.

Two-color stripe

change color every 8 rows, carrying the old color up the side. The stitch count does not change.

Troubleshooting

What you see	Likely cause	Fix
The band curls into a tube	Tension is too tight in the back loop rows	Work the back loop rows a little looser and check that you are not skipping the first stitch after the turning chain.
The stitch count drops over several rows	The first stitch after the turning chain is being missed	Count 12 sts at the end of every few rows; place a marker in the first stitch of each row.
The seam looks bulky	Too many loops caught in the whipstitch	Pick up one loop from each edge only, and pull the seam snug but not tight.
The band is too loose on the head	The flat length is longer than the head needs	Open the seam, remove 2 to 4 rows, and reseam so the band sits with slight stretch.
Ridges are uneven	Some stitches worked through both loops	Check that the hook goes under the back loop only on every stitch; the front loop stays free.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, squeeze gently without wringing, and lay flat to dry away from direct heat. Do not tumble dry, because heat can relax the stretch in acrylic yarn.

Questions Makers Ask

How do I know what length to make?

Measure around your head, then subtract about 2 in (5 cm) for stretch. Work rows until the flat band is that length, then seam. The 49-row count is for a head of about 21 to 23 in (53 to 58 cm).

Can I use worsted weight yarn instead?

Yes, but the band will be thinner and less chunky. Use a 5.0 mm (H-8) hook, add rows to reach the same flat length, and expect a slightly different stitch count per row.

Why work in the back loop only?

Working only the back loop leaves the front loop free, which creates the raised ridges and adds stretch across the band. Working both loops gives a flatter, less stretchy fabric.

Designer’s note: Check the flat length against your own head before seaming; the row count is a starting point, not a fixed rule.

Next: Try a matching ribbed cowl worked in the same back-loop half double crochet, joined in the round instead of seamed.